Napa cabbage left to ferment cold for a month, then simmered with paper-thin pork belly until the broth turns milky and sour — the dish that carries a Dongbei family from the first snow to the thaw.
A two-year-old hen and a double handful of dried wild hazel mushrooms, simmered for ninety minutes until the broth turns the colour of strong tea, then finished with slippery sweet-potato noodles.
Eggplant, potato and green pepper, each flash-fried on its own, then tumbled together in a glossy garlic-soy glaze — soft, salty, sweet, and nothing like the health food the name promises.
The first thing that hits you is the vinegar. Not the polite, subtle kind — the sharp, sweet-tart smell of aged mǐ cù hitting a hot wok, caramelizing …